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Cosmeceuticals
Cosmeceuticals
There are a variety of cosmeceuticals used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders. Although other topical agents, such as HQ and retinoids, are the mainstay of treatment used in hyperpigmentation, cosmeceuticals can be used as adjunct or alternative treatment options. Cosmeceuticals decrease pigmentation by the disruption of different steps along the melanocyte activation pathway or through exfoliation of keratinocytes containing melanosomes. Many cosmeceutical options are derived from natural sources such as botanicals. Among many others, a few examples of commonly used agents include ascorbic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, and licorice and soy extracts. Ascorbic acid is a naturally occurring antioxidant that interacts with copper ions on tyrosinase active sites and reduces oxidized dopaquinone. The botanicals kojic acid, arbutin, and licorice extracts inhibit tyrosinase. Soy extracts inhibit PAR-2 activation which inhibits keratinocyte phagocytosis of melanosomes, and thus melanosome transfer. While the mechanisms of action of many of these agents have been shown in vitro, more clinical studies are needed to better understand their efficacy in treating patients with hyperpigmentation disorders.19,20